news from the Alps summer 2007

Latest news:

(for winter reports 2007-08 please go to latest news from the slopes)

Perfect weather and snow conditions (21 Sep)

After fresh snow a few days of perfect weather produced perfect conditions on Mont Blanc.  In the western Alps September has had some of the best weather of the season.

Another winter blast (18 Sep)

Another dynamic cold front crossed the Alps bringing lower temperatures and and snow below 2000m.  SLF issued another avalanche warning.  The weather forecast is for clear sunny weather for a few days.

A week of fine weather (14 Sep)

Clear sunny weather, cool temperatures and great snow conditions means a week when many routes are in great condition.

A winter blast (4 Sep)

A dynamic cold front crossed the Alps overnight bringing lower temperatures and snow at high altitude (SLF issued an avalanche warning).  The zero isotherm is expected to fall below 2000m, and the midday temperature is -10.7°C at Junjfraujoch and -1.7°C at Grand Saint Bernard.  The old snow from August is well consolidated at high altitude and may provide a sliding surface for the next snowfalls.

September starts clear and sunny (1 Sep)

A new month starts with clear sunny weather.  Daytime temperatures are still reasonably high, but mornings have a crisp feel as the days shorten.

August ends with storms (30 Aug)

After a period of warm, dry and sunny weather August ended with precipitation and storms.  The warmer weather weakened many snow bridges on the glaciers, but conditions remain good on routes that need a reasonable cover of snow.

Sun and warm weather follow snow showers (24 Aug)

The week started with showers and some snow up high, then finished with a return to sunny and warm weather with high temperatures in the valley.  Most glaciers remain easy to cross and conditions are very good on many alpine climbs.

Fine weather stabilises snow (15 Aug)

After the heavy snow of 8-9 August, six days of fine weather have stabilised the snowpack in many areas.  There are some excellent conditions on snow, ice and mixed routes, and glaciers are mostly easy to cross, but care is needed to avoid soft snow slides in the afternoons.

Heavy snowfall prompts avalanche warnings (8 Aug)

With up to 1m of snow falling at high altitude, the Swiss Avalanche Foundation issued a special avalanche hazard forecast.  In the high mountains the avalanche risk will be considerable, while at lower elevations full depth slides will occur on bare ground .  Above 2000m it is a sudden return to winter and spring avalanche conditions.

August starts clear and fine (1 Aug)

More snow at high altitude has kept snow, ice and mixed routes in great conditions.  However, conditions on high rock routes are rather challenging.

Tragedy at Concordia (28 July)

Tragedy struck just a few meters away from the ladders leading from the glacier to the Concordia hut when a snow bridge collapsed.  Many mountaineers had followed the same route, but in the early hours of 28 July the surface collapsed and the highly respected IFMGA President Claude Rey fell some 30m and sustained fatal injuries.

Some mixed weather but great conditions (27 July)

More snow at high altitude has kept snow, ice and mixed routes in great conditions.  However, conditions on high rock routes are rather challenging.

Warmer weather clears the Matterhorn (19 July)

Higher temperatures have been clearing some of the high ridges of snow.  Conditions are quite testing on the Matterhorn with snow still below the Solvay emergency bivouac hut, but the Hornli Ridge is now getting regular ascents.

More snow brings avalanche hazards (11 July)

The high peaks are once again under heavy cover of fresh snow and elevated avalanche risks.  Some of the snow and mixed ridges have excellent conditions, however tragedy struck a group of six young Swiss soldiers undertaking mountain training when they fell on the Jungfrau.

Good ice and skis for July (1 July)

Fine weather and good snow conditions start the month of July.  Many snow, ice and mixed routes are in good condition, and glaciers are mostly easy to cross.  Snow conditions are good for some high ski descents and north faces.

Skies clear after more precipitation (29 June)

At the start of the week strong winds and snow crossed the western alps.

Great weather for Alpine Club 150th anniversary (23 June)

With fine weather and fresh snow on peaks like the Matterhorn members of the Alpine Club gathered in Zermatt to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the founding of the Club.  The weather for the celebration dinner at Riffelberg was excellent and hence many ascents of the Riffelhorn were made before the dinner.

Excellent ice (19 June)

A clear night resulted in a good freeze in many areas and some excellent conditions for ice climbing.  Various classic routes are in very good condition, and some of the hardest ice and mixed climbs (e.g. on the Grandes Jorasses) seem to be climbable.

High avalanche risk (17 June)

The recent snow and winds created high avalanche risk on the high summits.  Tragedy struck on Mont Blanc du Tacul, when a large slab avalanche hit six climbers.

Thunder storms in the afternoons (14 June)

A pattern of clear mornings with afternoon storms continues to bring fresh snow above 3300m.  Most of the higher summits are under soft fresh snow.  Glaciers are well covered up high, but lower down are dry.  Care is needed with snow bridges over streams and low down on glaciers.

More snow, then summer returns (4 June)

After a week of precipitation with fresh snow above 2500m the skies clear and high temperatures return.  There is soft snow above 2300m and the freezing level is around 3500m.  The high summits are under deep snow, but the overall depth of snow is below the seasonal average for the time of year.  Rock climbs on some lower altitude peaks are clear of snow and the valley rock climbing is excellent.

A week of summer, more snow on the way (25 May)

A week of high temperatures, with the zero isotherm around 3800m and up to 25° C in the valley, produced a rapid transformation and stability in the snow from the previous week.  The snow depth decreased rapidly, and the Swiss Avalanche Foundation (SLF) recorded absolute record low snow depths for the time of year since measurements began.  Hence, conditions on the high glaciers and peaks are currently like a traditional mid summer with many options for climbing on rock, snow, ice and mixed.  The forecast is for some heavy precipitation on both sides of the Alps, and a drop in temperatures bringing snow down to 2500m.  With up to 50cm of fresh snow forecast across the Alps, the glaciers and snow and ice climbs will receive some much needed additional cover.

Heavy snow, particularly in the northern Alps (17 May)

Four days of passing fronts have brought up to 80cm of fresh snow to the northern Alps.  The new snow is mostly above 3000m and has fallen below 2000m (at which altitude midday temperatures have been zero degrees).  The new snow arrived on winds initially strong from the southwest, then moderate from the northwest; and these have produced some deep wind accumulations at altitude.  The forecast predicts that by the week-end another 40-80cm of fresh snow will fall in the western Oberland.

Conditions and lifts around Mont Blanc (12 May)

Around the col du Midi the ice climbing conditions are rather lean, and many of the rock climbs are clear of snow.  The training areas on the Mer de Glace are rather 'flat', which limits the area for steeper ice climbing.  On many high peaks there is good snow on the normal routes.  At the Grand Montets the last lift for alpinists is on the 13 May.  The Aig du Midi lift and Montenvers railway remain open throughout the spring.  

For other winter and spring reports go to 'latest news from the slopes'