Matterhorn information

summits - Matterhorn

Probably the most recognisable peak in the Alps.

Our programme includes the essential skills and acclimatisation to give you the best chance of success to reach the summit. For the first part of the week we select the exact itinerary depending upon the weather and conditions. We normally climb the Matterhorn by the Hornli Ridge but other routes are possible depending upon the experience of the party and conditions (see summit info).

Outline programme
sun	Evening meeting in Leysin (alternatively meet in Zermatt)
mon	Acclimatisation rock climb (e.g. Riffelhorn, Dri Hornli)
tue	Ascent of a high-altitude ridge (e.g. Breithorn, Portjengrat)
wed	Acclimatisation ascent (e.g. Pollux, Weismess) return to valley
thu	Up to Hornli hut and check the first part of the climb
fri	Ascent of the Matterhorn and descent to Zermatt / Leysin
sat	Depart

View from the summit of Mont Blanc

Matterhorn - summit info

The Matterhorn’s pyramidal shape makes it one of the world’s most recognised Alpine peaks. The first ascent in 1865 by Edward Whymper and party, and tragedy on the descent (see note below), is one of the historic landmarks of alpine climbing.

The summit of the Matterhorn (4477m) is a fairly level ridge which is the culmination of four distinct ridges and faces. The classic ridges are easier when clear of snow, so tend to be climbed from mid summer through into autumn. The face routes need plenty of snow and ice, and are usually only attempted in winter and early spring when conditions can be good.

The Hornli Ridge is the easiest route (AD) and is long - the height gain from the Hornli Hut to the summit is almost 1,300m which involves nearly 2,000m of scrambling and rock climbing. The route can be confusing, and has been the scene of many accidents. The emergency Solvay Hut is at 4003m on the ridge. Stonefall can be a problem from careless parties. On the difficult sections near the top there are fixed ropes placed by the local guides. The descent can take longer than the climb.

The Italian Ridge is a rock climb of some difficulty, also made easier by fixed ropes and ladders. The Zmutt Ridge starts with a good snow crest that ends in rock teeth and exposed slabs; the route is the classic difficult ridge. The Furggen Ridge is the hardest ridge, rising in three big towers to the summit. The final tower is usually avoided on its left. The North Face is one of the big alpine routes. It is not technically extreme but its seriousness cannot be doubted because of poor belays and stonefall.

Arriving at the top of the Matterhorn

Dates 2011

24-30 Jul

31 Jul - 06 Aug

28 Aug - 02 Sep

05-11 Sep

Other dates can be organised on request.

Ratio

1 climber with 1 guide

Price per person

CHF4,350 per person

The price includes:

• 5 days guiding fees and expenses

• use of safety equipment

• 6 nights half-board accommodation

in mountain huts and hotels (twin rooms)

• in-course transfers

The price does not include:

• lunches

• drinks

• personal insurance

• cable cars and mountain trains

• your travel to and from Leysin

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Climbers on the Shoulder The descent can take longer

“Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are naught without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end.”

Edward Whymper after the first ascent of the Matterhorn in July 1865 and the tragedy on the descent when four members of the party fell to their deaths.

How to enjoy the Matterhorn

To enjoy an ascent of the Matterhorn you should have good experience of climbing on exposed ridges with loose rock, be fit and well acclimatised. Being able to descend quickly and safely is vital to avoid being caught in an afternoon thunderstorm and the hazards of lightening strikes with strong localised winds and precipitation.