Mont Blanc information

alpineguides.info summer 2008

summits - Mont Blanc

Where it all began in 1786, the highest summit in the Alps:

Our programme includes the essential skills and acclimatisation to give you the best chance of success with adequate time for two opportunities to reach the summit. For the first part of the week we select the venue depending upon the weather and conditions. Closer to the time and depending upon conditions we make a decision on which route to follow on Mont Blanc (see summit info).

Outline programme
sat	Evening meeting in Leysin (alternatively meet in Chamonix)
sun	Up to a hut and glacier training
mon	Acclimatisation ascent and technique practice, night in hut
tue	Acclimatisation ascent and descend to valley
wed	Up to Tete Rousse hut	or, up to Cosmiques hut
thu	Up to Gouter hut and 1st chance to climb Mont Blanc	1st chance to climb Mont Blanc and descent to hut
fri	2nd chance to climb Mont Blanc and return to Leysin / Chamonix
sat	Depart

Reaching the ridge leading to the Gouter hut

Mont Blanc - summit info

The first ascent of Mont Blanc was in 1786 by Balmat and Paccard and marked the start of alpinism as a sport. The normal routes of ascent are technically easy (PD) in magnificent scenery, and the final exposed summit ridge makes this one of the finest snow summits in the Alps.

At 4810m Mont Blanc is a high and complex mountain with objective dangers and climbing on all routes, and in bad weather difficult route finding. Conditions for an ascent can be good from early June through to October. The determining factor will always be the weather and any recent snowfall. In July and August the ascent is very popular and the huts can be overcrowded and must be booked in advance. In spring time the mountain is climbed as a demanding ski tour.

The most popular normal routes of ascent are via the Gouter and Cosmiques huts. The Grands Mulets route is much less popular. The Italian normal route is longer and joins the Gouter route. Each route has its particular hazards, which vary from year to year and the prevailing weather and snow conditions. There can be steep icy sections on the traverse, ice avalanches on both the traverse and Grands Mulets route, and stonefall on the Gouter route.

Many attempts on Mont Blanc fail because of lack of preparation and poor acclimatization, and tragically every year the mountain claims many lives. However, with adequate experience and good preparation reaching the summit of Mont Blanc is a highly enjoyable and rewarding experience that will be a lifelong memory.

Enjoying the view at the top of Mont Blanc

Dates 2008

14-21 Jun

28 Jun - 5 Jul

12-19 Jul

26 Jul - 2 Aug

16-23 Aug

30 Aug 06 Sep

13-20 Sep

Other dates can be organised on request.

Ratio

1 or 2 climbers with 1 guide

Price per person

£1,300 or CHF3,125 (party of two)

£2,100 or CHF5,050 (party of one)

The price includes:

• 6 days guiding fees and expenses

• use of safety equipment

• 7 nights half-board accommodation

in mountain huts and hotels (twin rooms)

• in-course transport and cable cars

The price does not include:

• lunches

• drinks

• personal insurance

• your travel to and from Leysin

Make a booking

How to enjoy Mont Blanc

To enjoy an ascent of Mont Blanc we recommend that you have had at least one week experience of alpine mountaineering including some nights in huts and high summits (e.g. see the intro to alpinism) and ideally climbed some 4000m peaks before (e.g. see 4000 Oberland and 4000 Valais / Pennine).

Without the experience of early starts and working at high altitude it is difficult in one week to learn and practice all the necessary safety skills and basic techniques, get acclimatised, and enjoy climbing the highest peak in the Alps.